The tourist hot spot that is in a class of its own
DOES Dubai deserve its reputation as one of the jewels in the Emirati crown? Or is it all hype and hyperbole that has led it to becoming one of the top tourist attractions on the planet?
It is already well known for luxury shopping, ultra-modern architecture and its lively nightlife. Add in to those ingredients, the iconic 828-metre tall Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Fountain, which features jets of water and lights choreographed to music, and you have a heady mix.
But what is a holiday in Dubai really like and does it match up to the view of those glossy tourist brochures?
My wife and I decided to find out. And here is our verdict after a four-night stay.
For our four-night stay we chose the Lana Hotel, part of the impressive Dorchester Collection of Hotels.
And wow, we were wrapped in understated luxury from the moment we stepped across the threshold – all the way to the top of the five-star property, where you will find the rooftop swimming pools, relaxing sunbeds, all 35-storeys closer to the ever-beaming rays.
After an overnight flight from Heathrow, we were soon able to settle into our sumptuous Junior Suite, helped in no small measure by an attentive staff who made us feel we had been regulars at the hotel for many years.
JARA BY MARTIN BERSUTIGUI at the LANA HOTEL
Next morning after a comfortable air-conditioned night’s sleep, we decided our ‘getting-acclimatised’ day would be spent sunbathing by the rooftop pools, building up an appetite for what we hoped would be our first culinary delight – and we were not disappointed.
Later that day we stepped into the hotel’s renowned Jara restaurant, overseen by one of the world’s leading chefs, Martin Berasategui
The Basque master has created some truly unique dishes and cocktails which have earned him an astonishing 12 Michelin stars spread over 14 restaurants in Spain, Mexico and the Dominican Republic. After our sumptuous dinner it’s easy to see why he has stacked up the honours like empty dinner plates.
With our table having a view of the stunning skyline, it was initially hard to concentrate on choosing a cocktail from the extensive list. Eventually I landed on a chef exclusive, El Tomato, a type of Bloody Mary, laced with vodka, tomatoes, padrone peppers, passion fruit, lemon and vanilla. My husband, who is not much of a drinker, went for the sparkling water.
After some lovely Amuse Bouche, I decided to take the waiter’s advice and let him serve me the tasting menu based on a quick chat we had when I first arrived.
I was presented with two delicate, buttery oysters and caviar that slid down beautifully, followed by tomato tartar and Cantabrian anchovy duo with both crystal and brioche bread, simply exquisite.
Across the table, my dining companion made an inspired selection: the Txangurro Donostiarra, a San Sebastian-style spider crab stew, one of the stars of the show!
The wine list was packed with gems but in the end, I played it rather safe with a bottle of El Pintado, a full-bodied red from Rioja; all to myself!
For our mains, I stayed with the fish theme with the charcoal-grilled Monkfish which was succulent, rich and bursting with flavour. It was teamed up with asparagus, bearnaise and a portion of fries to complete a truly memorable dish.
My partner was as happy as I was with his main choice: Australian Angus tenderloin, also charcoal grilled, Basque-style.
We were almost sated but we couldn’t leave without a sweet treat, so we shared a burnt orange and chocolate served with Basque olive oil and smoked sea salt and a small but delectable portion of Basque cheesecake. A perfect end to a perfect dinner.
BREAKFAST AT THE LANA
Next morning after a comfortable air-conditioned night’s sleep, we were ready for breakfast at The Lana, yet another culinary experience. Served on the eighth floor, guests have the option to eat and set themselves for the day either inside or on the terrace. After a short sojourn my wife headed for the skies for more sunbathing while I relaxed and turned my break-feast into a couple of hours of relaxation as I watched the world go by and chatted to a couple of other sociable British visitors.
HIGH SOCIETY at the LANA HOTEL
The evenings are transformed when the well-named High Society bar comes alive as the sun slowly sets. Delicious food produced by the brilliant in-house French chef Jean Imbert adds to the ambience.
High above the water front on the hotel’s thirtieth floor, the bar has a roof top infinity pool, affording spectacular views of the city from dawn to dusk.
There was softly beating music and it felt amazing to swim in the pool where you really did feel you were floating in the sky.
The menu offers light bites from an exquisite selection. From the crudo bar I enjoyed Caviar, sea bass carpaccio and oysters. There is a sharing option where choices included Scampi Nems, Atlantic crab and a signature cheese board served with apple compote, walnuts and Angelo Musa baguette.
THE BYRON BATHERS CLUB
In the heart of the Palm Jumeriah, and not too far from The Lana, is this fabulous beach club. It’s an Australian-themed (very) hot spot which affords stunning views along the beach. The bright blue and grey decor give a real nautical vibe to this ‘Time Out Best Family Restaurant 2025’.
I once again went for a Bloody Mary which was a great prelude/accompaniment to my platter of a dozen oysters and half a lobster. My partner ordered French fries and salad and we happily mixed and matched our lunch.
PLATINUM HERITAGE DESERT SAFARI
The tour began with pick up in an air-conditioned Range Rover, which easily accommodated ourselves and four others.
We arrived at our assembly point and there was a lovely surprise awaiting us with everyone offered a traditional headdress from a choice of different coloured scarves.
Then we were guided to a small fleet of vintage Land Rovers and off we went through the rugged terrain, leaving the dust in our wake until we spotted Arabian Oryx that were very happy to pose for photos.
As darkness enveloped us, our journey through the desert became almost magical as we spotted twinkling lights in the distance – as we got closer, we could clearly make out the flames surrounding the entrance to a Bedouin camp.
Once inside it was filled with huts, each offering a different attraction – there was someone producing hot and delicious flat bread, another was grinding fresh coffee, ladies were offered Henna and the buffet food was extraordinary with fish, meats, salads, vegetables and a selection of hot and cold drinks.
Just before embarking on the journey back, we sat for a while and smoked some shisha beneath the stars. Another prefect end to a perfect Dubai day.
FRYING PAN ADVENTURES
We got a taxi to downtown Dubai to meet our group for this excursion which was billed as a Middle Eastern food pilgrimage tour.
First stop was Falafel Sultan where we tasted freshly made falafel and learned about the history of this local staple concluding that several countries claim its invention. Hummus, pickles and delicious pitta were also served while we listened to lots of interesting foodie facts.
THE CURRENT HOTTEST DESERT PRODUCT IN THE WORLD
This took place at the Dubai Knafeh, where we watched the product in question being made and sampled it immediately. It is shredded filo pastry (kadaifi) and cheese, soaked in a sweet syrup called Attar. It is finished off with pistachio and is the inspiration for the famous Dubai chocolate.
A quick chicken wrap and a very interesting talk led us to our next meal at Miran Erbil, an authentic Iraqi restaurant with a very special item on the menu, Masgouf, which is the national dish and consists of a whole carp, butterflied and seasoned, then grilled over an open fire. It was delicious, with a subtle smoky flavour and gorgeous crispy skin.
Many of my friends have visited Dubai and spent their entire break sunbathing by the pool with the odd visit to the famous shopping mall.
But Dubai is much, much more than that.
So, to answer my question about Dubai’s place in the tourist pecking order. Yes, it’s right there at the very top – it might even be the tops!
For me, it’s Definitely Dubai…
* With thanks to the Lana Hotel and Visit Dubai.