From Monaco To Moscow: Where To Eat

by Ian Cherepanov Editor-at-Large
January 22, 2023
From Monaco To Moscow: Where To Eat

Moscow’s history and culture has long attracted Monegasques, both for business and pleasure. Today the Russian capital has earned its spot on the worldwide gastronomical map, with trendy restaurants headed by talented chefs offering modern food concepts. In fact, thanks to the 2018 FIFA World Cup, people finally see Russia has more to offer than borsch and pelmeni dumplings.

One Of The World’s Best

Currently rated 13 on the 2019 World’s 50 Best Restaurants, White Rabbit restaurateur Boris Zarkov and chef Vladimir Mukhin have created a new Russian cuisine, a combination of the latest culinary trends, local products and ancient recipes, served from the 16th floor of Smolenskiy Passage. Even the borsch soup has a twist with fried crucian carp, baked beans and turnip crisps (€10).

Chef Mukhin’s seasonal tasting menu “Contrast” (€145) allows diners to see, feel and taste the difference between Fire and Water (green tomatoes, milk mushrooms, borodino sourdough bread), North and South (black cod, fermented kvass and Jerusalem artichoke) and Past and Future (birch bast and condensed milk).

Europe’s Highest Restaurant

Situated on the 85th floor of the city’s largest skyscraper, the OKO Tower, Ruski is Europe’s highest restaurant at 350 meters and offers a spectacular 360° panorama of the city.

Chef Alexander Volkov- Medvedev works in an open concept kitchen featuring an 8-meter high traditional Russian oven, the largest in Moscow. From here, dishes are stewed, from the slow- cooked cabbage soup with wild mushrooms (€7) and rasstegai fish pies (€2) to the Russian-style braised lamb dumplings (€13) and pork ribs simmered in sour cream (€12). Even the country milk for dessert is boiled slowly (€4).

But Ruski’s main attraction is the ice bar, the highest in the world, where at any time of the year visitors can don a fur coat and hat to enter the -15°C room and sample tinctures, vodka, liqueurs and, of course, Russian black caviar.

Best 360° Panorama

Also located in the highest residential tower in Europe, and one floor below Ruski, Birds is the best spot for Monegasques to take in a 360° view on the city...but come with an empty stomach. The gastronomic restaurant is led by one of the most talented young chefs in Moscow, Alexander Raylyan, who fuses Europe and Asia together in a series of signature dishes, finger foods and plates to share.

In addition to the sushi bar, Ostrich carpaccio (€18), duck heart tartare (€9) and Tensi blue prawn ceviche (€40) are just a few of the delicacies on the menu, along with sous vide tomatoes and truffle cheese (€12), warm beef salad on brioche bread (€22) or Peking duck (€32). Sip on a Dragon Egg cocktail (matcha vodka and aloe honey served in half- opened egg; €12) while you decide.

The bar hosts live performances, orchestral concerts and immersive showings by leading theatre actors and there’s also a club with nightly DJ’s.

Coolest View Of Kremlin

Located on the 2nd floor of the Hotel National Moscow, the lavishly designed Beluga restaurant boasts the coolest view of the Kremlin. What makes this eatery truly standout out though is the two-dozen varieties of caviar (including the rare White Pearl Albino Sturgeon), and the biggest selection of vodka and champagnes in Moscow.

Beyond caviar—either sampling different types (sturgeon, starlet and beluga, for example) or ordering poached egg, sea urchin, pasta, fried  scallop or even soup supplemented by black caviar—chef Anton Kovalkov’s menu is rich in national products combined with unique dishes. Arkhangelsk toothfish (€8), muksun sugudai with potato stones (€10), okroshka soup with homemade corned beef (€10) and vareniki dumplings with porcini mushrooms (€14).

Or just go for the Japanese-inspired “Cyrillic” set menu (€88) featuring traditional Russian delicacies and modern haute cuisine. Among the dishes on offers are caviar oreo, satsivi and Bazhe sauce with black caviar, steamed viziga soufflés with white caviar, and beet soup with wagyu.

The Bargeman’s Breakfast (€580), however, is for sharing: a kilo of Ossetra caviar with different snacks and appetizers and accompanied by 1 liter of vodka or a 750-ml bottle of champagne.



Ian Cherepanov


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