Set among oaks and pines near Les Arcs-sur-Argens, Le Relais des Moines has the feel of a country retreat, with the Massif des Maures rising beyond the terrace. It is here, away from the busier addresses of the coast, that Sébastien Sanjou has been cooking for more than two decades, bringing together the produce of Provence and the flavours of his native South-West.
Sébastien Sanjou first discovered the property in February 2002. Originally from Bigorre, he had trained in Biarritz and came from a family involved in food for five generations. He bought Le Relais des Moines and made it his own, receiving his first Michelin star at the age of 31. Today, despite other restaurants in France, this remains his principal address and the clearest expression of his cooking.
The setting is part of its appeal. The restaurant sits in a wooded park close to the medieval village of Les Arcs-sur-Argens, and in warmer months the terrace becomes one of the most pleasant places to experience Sébastien Sanjou’s cuisine. Lunch can stretch into the afternoon beneath the trees; in the evening, the atmosphere becomes quieter as attention turns to the table.
The kitchen is closely tied to the region. Over the years, Sébastien Sanjou has built relationships with growers, fishermen and producers, often choosing a different supplier for each ingredient. Courgettes, tomatoes and other vegetables come from growers he knows, while fish reflects the restaurant’s proximity to the Mediterranean. Meat and poultry bring another accent to the menu, with Sébastien Sanjou returning to producers and traditions from the South-West.
This balance between the two regions gives Le Relais des Moines its character. The plates are refined but easy to read. Ingredients are not disguised by technique: fish tastes of fish, vegetables retain their freshness and texture, and sauces have an important place at the table. Sébastien Sanjou pays particular attention to cooking and seasoning, building dishes around a clear principal flavour.
On the current menu, courgettes from Roquebrune are prepared raw and cooked, with grilled sardine and citrus. Bluefin tuna from Olivier Bardoux is marinated with népita, green pepper and radish. Red mullet is cooked over the flame and served with cucumber, agastache and kumquat. Pigeon arrives from the cocotte with crisp green beans and ceps — a dish that brings the cooking closer to Sébastien Sanjou’s South-Western roots.
Desserts remain just as seasonal, with Boulbon apricots, vineyard peaches and raspberries appearing at the height of summer. Rather than keeping the same dishes throughout the year, Sébastien Sanjou changes the menu at least every three months, and sometimes sooner. Asparagus disappears when its season ends; tomatoes arrive when they are ready. Ingredients such as pigeon may return, but in a different composition.
There is no obligation to commit to a long tasting menu. Le Relais des Moines offers four-, five- and seven-course menus alongside à la carte choices, with shorter options at lunch. It makes the restaurant equally suited to a leisurely gastronomic dinner or a more spontaneous lunch in the Var. For Sébastien Sanjou, the guest should be able to decide how they want to eat.
That flexibility does not come at the expense of detail. Dietary requirements can be accommodated, particularly when mentioned in advance, and the kitchen keeps certain preparations adaptable. It is a practical approach to hospitality that suits the restaurant: attentive, accomplished and centred on the pleasure of the table.
More than 20 years after Sébastien Sanjou first arrived, Le Relais des Moines has the maturity of a restaurant that knows exactly what it wants to be. There are plans to add a hotel to the property in the future, opening another chapter for the address.
For now, the restaurant alone is reason enough to take the road to Les Arcs-sur-Argens: a table among the trees, Mediterranean produce at its seasonal best, the richness of the South-West appearing in just the right places, and the cooking of Sébastien Sanjou at the restaurant he has called home since 2002.
Address: 77 Chem. des Valises, 83460 Les Arcs
Phone: +33 4 94 47 40 93